Wiped-out!

When I first read the waiver in the surf school in Bondi Beach, Australia: "I understand that there are risks and dangers inherent in surfing... such as shark bites, jellyfish stings.. " I got mortified. #1) shark bites? #2) I don't swim well. and #3) shark bites????

Um, ok.

As my instructor helped me suit-up for my surf lesson, he asked: "Where are you from, Pam?" I told him I am from Manila.. I was slightly surprised when he said that we have one of the best surf spots in the Philippines. He even asked: "So why are you learning to surf here, when you have one of the best spots ever?"

"Well, yes. But you know, I wouldn't give up the chance to surf in where they say is the surf capital of the world." I just answered back.

me, my goofy smile and my instructor (and his assistant). hehe!

signs on surfing are respected in Bondi Beach

So anyway, part of the surf lesson I signed up for is to learn how to handle the surf board well. I had to drag, yes drag, my board from the surf school all the way to the opposite side of the beach, where the waves started to get crazy. By the time I reached our spot, my arms felt almost sore. But I didn't mind. I was still very excited about my impending lesson.

My instructor explained the theories, techniques, and whatnot of surfing for a good 5 minutes. The thing that stuck in my head the most was the bit about rips (the "calmer" but deeper part of the water), how to recognize them and how not to get stuck in it, and the breaking of waves/water. He also taught me how to lie on the board properly, and how to stand up. In theory and on sand, all these sounded so easy. So I thought to myself, "I got this."

As I started to get in the water for my actual surf lesson, I almost wanted to back out. The water was freezing!!! Mind you, I was wearing 2 wetsuits already. And as I continued on, the waves started to hit me. I've been in beaches yes, but not those for surfing. So the waves were a shock. They were a little too big for me. At some point, it was literally "eating" me. My instructor, half laughing and half worried, would shout out: "Pam are you OK? One second I see you, and the next, you'd be gone!!!"

I think the main reason why I pushed forward with my lesson was pride. I just didn't want my instructor to think that I, a girl from Manila was a sissy.



surfers going out into the water

 When I finally got my groove of setting myself up onto the board, I listened how my instructor, beside me, reminded me of the things I need to do. As soon as he pushes my board towards the shore (in time when and where the waves were breaking), he told me to paddle like crazy, and then try to push myself up.

So we did just that. We waited for a wave, he pushed my board, I paddled like crazy, and I tried to push my upper body up and away from the board. I didn't try to stand up yet, because I wanted to have a feel of the ride first. So after I did, I braved the cold water and the huge waves and went back around to the spot in the water with my instructor. He then told me that maybe I should try to stand up already.

surfers in water waiting for waves

The next wave came. He pushed, I paddled, I pushed myself up. And then I stood. The next thing I remember was water. A lot of water! Cause I immediately fell off the board after my first attempt to stand, and with the strong waves, I got, once again, "eaten by water."

I tried again. And again. And again. My instructor, kept pointing out the things I was doing wrong, the things I was doing right, and tips on how to make it easier. After a lot of tries and frustrated wipe-outs, I was able to finally stand up! YEY! Though it was only a sort of stand up position.. As I was still crouched down very near the board. I think my instructor was happier than I was when I did it and I turned around to try to do it again.

surfers riding the waves

In that 2 hours, I think if my count was right, I was able to stand up on my board thrice. Not bad for me! =)

I've no action shot photos of myself to show you, unfortunately. But I am hoping that inasmuch as I enjoyed surfing the beaches of Australia, I will also enjoy the beauty of the surf spots here in the Philippines. That time, maybe I’ll have my action shots already. I might do better surfing here in the Philippines. Afterall, this is home.. and there are no threats of sharks around.

surfs up, mates!

When: November 30, 2011

Where: Bondi Beach, Sydney Australia